Guides

Interior remodel

Kitchen, bath, or layout change. Permit trigger is usually plumbing, electrical, mechanical, or moving walls.

Yes if you move walls, add circuits, relocate plumbing, or change occupancy. Paint, cabinets, and flooring usually no.

Related permits4
BuildingElectricalPlumbingMechanical
Documents3
  • Scope letter or simple plans
  • Existing layout vs. proposed
  • Product cut sheets for new fixtures / appliances
Prepare3

Confirm the AHJ, whether the work is permitted, and who can pull the ticket. Clear zoning, flood, and utilities before you pay for a full set.

  1. Confirm the Authority Having Jurisdiction

    City limits, unincorporated county, and special districts are different desks. Use the address, not the mailing city. If two portals look plausible, call both and ask which one issues the permit for that folio / parcel.

    Owner or GC

  2. Decide whether the work is permitted

    Most structural, MEP, envelope, and change-of-use work needs a permit. Cosmetic finishes usually do not. When in doubt, ask the building department in writing and keep the answer with the job file.

    Owner or designer

  3. Line up the people who can pull the permit

    Many AHJs only issue to a licensed contractor, a registered design professional, or an owner-builder who signs an affidavit. Check the state license and any local business tax receipt before you apply.

    GC / trades

Apply2

Assemble a complete submittal and file it in the official portal. Pay intake. Keep the record number. A complete application is not a permit.

  1. Assemble the submittal

    Application, site plan or survey, construction drawings, product approvals, energy forms, and owner / contractor affidavits. Incomplete packages are the most common reason a file sits.

    Applicant

  2. File in the official portal

    Create the account on the AHJ portal, pay the intake fee, and keep the record number. Do not start work. A complete application is not a permit.

    Applicant

Review2

Answer every comment, cloud the sheets, and resubmit the set the AHJ asked for. Issuance comes after fees and a stamped job copy.

  1. Plan review and corrections

    Building, zoning, fire, flood, and trade reviewers may each comment. Answer every comment in writing, cloud the sheets, and resubmit the full corrected set the AHJ asked for.

    Designer + applicant

  2. Issuance and job-site posting

    Pay remaining fees, print or download the approved set, and post the permit card where the inspector can see it. The stamped set is the only legal job copy.

    Applicant

Build1

Build only what the last ticket allows. Call inspections before you conceal work. The approved set on site is the only legal job copy.

  1. Keep work visible until rough passes

    Do not hang drywall or set cabinets over uninspected rough-in. Photograph everything before cover.

    GC / trades

Close out2

Trade finals, then building final. Ask the department to close the file. Keep the CO / CC, as-builts, and product papers with the property.

  1. Final inspections

    Trade finals usually precede the building final. Do not conceal failed work. Bring the approved set, prior tickets, and special-inspection reports.

    GC

  2. Close the file

    Ask the department to final the permit. Collect the certificate of occupancy, certificate of completion, or finaled card. Keep as-builts, product approvals, and elevation certificates with the property.

    Owner + GC

Inspections2

Rough MEP / framing

Walls open

  • Approved set
  • Tests done
  • Safe access

Final

Fixtures set, devices on

  • GFCI/AFCI where required
  • Anti-scald if required
Closeout1
  • Trade finals and building final if a building permit was issued
Watch-outs2
  • A kitchen that only replaces cabinets may still need a permit if you move the sink or range.
  • Condo / HOA approval is not a building permit.