New one- or two-family home

• Signed application and owner / contractor affidavits
• Site plan or survey with setbacks, trees, and utilities
• Architectural, structural, and energy drawings
• Product approvals for roof, openings, and envelope (especially coastal / HVHZ)
• Septic or sewer availability; well or water tap

Confirm the AHJ, whether the work is permitted, and who can pull the ticket. Clear zoning, flood, and utilities before you pay for a full set.

1. Confirm the Authority Having Jurisdiction

   City limits, unincorporated county, and special districts are different desks. Use the address, not the mailing city. If two portals look plausible, call both and ask which one issues the permit for that folio / parcel.

   Owner or GC

2. Decide whether the work is permitted

   Most structural, MEP, envelope, and change-of-use work needs a permit. Cosmetic finishes usually do not. When in doubt, ask the building department in writing and keep the answer with the job file.

   Owner or designer

3. Line up the people who can pull the permit

   Many AHJs only issue to a licensed contractor, a registered design professional, or an owner-builder who signs an affidavit. Check the state license and any local business tax receipt before you apply.

   GC / trades

4. Clear zoning, flood, and utilities first

   Setbacks, lot coverage, flood zone, and water/sewer letters stop more new-home files than framing details. Get them before you pay for a full drawing set.

   Owner / civil

Assemble a complete submittal and file it in the official portal. Pay intake. Keep the record number. A complete application is not a permit.

1. Assemble the submittal

   Application, site plan or survey, construction drawings, product approvals, energy forms, and owner / contractor affidavits. Incomplete packages are the most common reason a file sits.

   Applicant

2. File in the official portal

   Create the account on the AHJ portal, pay the intake fee, and keep the record number. Do not start work. A complete application is not a permit.

   Applicant

Answer every comment, cloud the sheets, and resubmit the set the AHJ asked for. Issuance comes after fees and a stamped job copy.

1. Plan review and corrections

   Building, zoning, fire, flood, and trade reviewers may each comment. Answer every comment in writing, cloud the sheets, and resubmit the full corrected set the AHJ asked for.

   Designer + applicant

2. Issuance and job-site posting

   Pay remaining fees, print or download the approved set, and post the permit card where the inspector can see it. The stamped set is the only legal job copy.

   Applicant

Build only what the last ticket allows. Call inspections before you conceal work. The approved set on site is the only legal job copy.

1. Build only what the last ticket allows

   Foundation before slab cover. Framing before MEP concealment. Envelope and insulation before drywall. Do not bury work the inspector has not seen.

   GC

Trade finals, then building final. Ask the department to close the file. Keep the CO / CC, as-builts, and product papers with the property.

1. Final inspections

   Trade finals usually precede the building final. Do not conceal failed work. Bring the approved set, prior tickets, and special-inspection reports.

   GC

2. Close the file

   Ask the department to final the permit. Collect the certificate of occupancy, certificate of completion, or finaled card. Keep as-builts, product approvals, and elevation certificates with the property.

   Owner + GC

• Building final and all trade finals passed
• Certificate of Occupancy or equivalent issued
• Elevation certificate if the lot is in a flood zone
• As-builts and energy certificates to the owner

• Starting before issuance is the fastest way to a stop-work order.
• Temporary power is usually its own ticket.
• Impact windows, roof products, and HVHZ approvals are not interchangeable with inland listings.